Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni

When looking at this book it is striking how many different ranks and roles there was in Renaissance society and how clearly clothing denoted rank.

I was looking through this book trying to find an illustration of a Mayor, or a civic official. I did not find these roles in particular but I did find some interesting forms of gown.

I think it is good that I have broadened my research into other forms of robes/gowns and medieval dress. I feel it has given me a broader knowledge base. I have rarely done any research into these areas before and I have found it fascinating. I find it interesting how readily clothing, through its use of fabrics and colours, denotes rank in society and is symbolic of different things.

This book is a valuable source as it is written by a contemporary. There are bits where he looks back at ancient clothing where he has got his information from paintings or altarpieces.

This, from Early Venice, is a dogalina, which is a ‘rich-looking brocade or velvet robe with knee length, full flaring sleeves, which were contrast-lined, sometimes with fur. Ankle of calf length 14^th Cent.’ (Davies, 1994). The most striking part of this illustration is the turban-like hat but unfortunately this is not written about.

I thought the shape of this robe, worn by a Venetian merchant in Syria, had a similar shape and construction to the robe we are making. The gown is collarless with a pettorale (chest covering) and made of velvet or satin. 

These illustrations show contemporary senators and magistrates. I consider these roles of a similar status to that of a mayor or alderman. The magistrates are elected and is an office of great power. They wear a red over garment and the same gown is worn by the Dottori who go to govern cities subject to the Venetian republic.

These are gowns of professionals, the rector of student schools, doctors of law and vicars, doctors or local magistrates. The rectors gown is of gold brocade and has a hood lined with fur, under his gown he wears a doublet and hose. The doctor of law has open hanging sleeves and is black and made of wool, damasco or velvet in the winter and ormensino or ciambellotto in the summer. It is interesting how most of these gowns are made for summer and winter use like the gown that we are making for the Mayor.

The primo, who are in public office in Florence, wear a lucco, which is like a mantle, open at the front and sides and lined in black. Their sleeves and undergarments are then made of stamped rascia or some kind of patterned cloth.

This is a Senator of Germany and the garment he wears is similar to the robe we are making. This dress is worn by many magistrates and is made of velvet, fine wool or silk and is black. It is bordered with fur around all edges

Lastly this is an illustration of a Turk riding in the rain which I found interesting. This book clearly displays bias to Italy where Vecellio is from!

It is interesting to learn more about different types of robes. I would like to learn more about the origins of the shape of robe we are making, though as there are so many varieties around this time it may be hard to pinpoint