I have just found this portrait whilst trawling the V&A Collections and I was overwhelmed by what a fine example of an older gown this was.
Sir John Lenan (1544- 1632) was a tradesman from Suffolk, who became an alderman and in 1606 a Sheriff of London until he became Lord Mayor of London in 1616.
At this time James I was on the throne and the falling and standing band were coming into fashion. I think this older gentleman is sticking with past fashions as he is wearing a ruff and a doublet with slashing.
The sleeves of this gown have a T-shaped opening that is similar to some of the examples from the museum but they have fur in the opening and have the dramatic raised shoulders. I suppose these large shoulders meant that the mayor wouldn't need ties to keep the chains on!
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